16 April, 2017 nadya 124Comment

На днях я разговаривала со своим нью-йоркским знакомым Мишей, который делился историей о том, как оказался в суетливом городе Нью-Йорк и остался здесь жить. Очень быстро разговор принял неожиданный поворот: «Как? Ты ещё не была на кладбище Грин-вуд? Обязательно сходи, там красиво!» Слово «красиво» для меня здесь явно диссонировало, но вслух я произнесла: «Хорошо. Тогда давай сходим и посмотрим вместе!»

Для того, чтобы получить самое аутентичное впечатление, я не стала рассматривать фотографии Google Maps заранее, а просто следовала инструкциям Миши и поехала в Бруклин. Договорились встретиться на ветке F на станции “4th Avenue 9th Street”, а оттуда пешком. По дороге купили себе по стаканчику кофе и за беседой отправились в путь. В Нью-Йорке я живу 2,5 года и повидала за это время довольно много достопримечательностей, но с уверенностью могу сказать, что Грин-вуд стал одним из самых ярким впечатлений этого года.

01. Сказочная неоготическая арка у центрального входа, выполнена американским архитектором и бывшим президентом Американского Института Архитектуры Ричардом Апджоном. Архитектор известен ещё и тем, что занимался перестройкой знаменитой нью-йоркской церкви св. Троицы в Нижнем Манхэттене на пересечении Бродвей и Уолл-стрит.

02. Грин-вуд основан в 1838 г. как одно из первых деревенских кладбищ в Америке. Вид на Нижний Манхэттен и Всемирный торговый центр. До террористических атак с этой точки вполне можно было рассмотреть Башни-близнецы.

03.  Парк занимает огромную территорию почти в 2 кв. км. Открыт для посещения до 6 вечера. Я пришла в 4:30, но охрана настоятельно не рекомендовала мне заходить слишком далеко, чтобы я успела добежать до центральных ворот до закрытия. Ниже можно приблизительно представить масштаб по карте. За 1,5 часа с первого раза я успела осмотреть лишь пятую часть.

04. Похоже, в 19-м веке более знатного места для прогулок было не найти, т.к. парк конкурировал с Ниагарским водопадом по количеству посетителей, привлекая 500 000 человек в год. Толпы стекались сюда для того, чтобы насладиться времяпрепровождением с семьей, поездками в карете, полюбоваться скульптурами на фоне американских ландшафтов. Популярность Грин-вуда вдохновила на создание общественных парков, включая Нью-Йорк Сити Централ и Проспект Парк.


05. Хочется отметить несколько необычных для мегаполиса моментов: заметно чистый воздух по сравнению с другими районами Нью-Йорка, умиротворяющая обстановка и нет ощущения, что вы находитесь в городе мертвых. Кстати, в последующие разы прогуливаться в парке одной мне было совершенно комфортно.

06. Здесь находятся четыре пруда и сеть тропинок, среди которых располагается одна из самых крупных коллекций скульптур и мавзолеев 19-го и 20-го века под открытым небом.

07. Некоторые из них вообще решили бросить вызов покойному Хеопсу. Согласитесь, не часто встретишь такое на кладбище.

08. Все любят великие истории и бруклинское кладбище хранит множество таких. Любая значимая персона в 19-ом веке высказывала пожелания быть похороненной здесь. Как лаконично писал Нью-Йорк Таймс в 1866 году: “Дело престижа каждого нью-йоркца жить на Пятой Авеню, прогуливаться по Центральному (Парку) и покоиться с отцами в Грин-вуде.”

09. Из легко узнаваемых имен могу назвать Сэмюэля Морзе (изобретателя кода (азбуки) Морзе), Чарльза Тиффани (основателя ювелирной фирмы “Тиффани и Ко”), а также Уильяма Твида (главного местного коррупционера 19-го века, который будучи членом Палаты представителей, сенатором от штата Нью-Йорк и лидером Демократической партии США в Нью-Йорке украл на подрядах строительства, выделении земли, «разводнении» акций порядка 200 млн дол, что на сегодняшний день может соответствовать 3 млрд дол), Жан-Мишель Баския (звезда богемы, протеже Энди Уорхола, художник 20-го века), Сюзан Смит (первая темнокожая доктор медицины), Леонард Берштейн (американский композитор), Чарльз Эббет (фотограф, автор знаменитого снимка “Обед на небоскребе”), генералы Гражданской Войны, легенты бейсбола и т.д.

10. Часовня кладбища. Табличка на входе гласит: “Открыта ежедневно для отдыха, медитации и молитвы.”

11. Экскурсионный автобус Грин-вуда.

12. Церковь с другого ракурса. По-моему, выглядит просто завораживающе.

13. Примечательно то, что нигде на могилах нет оградок, венков, прощальных посланий, стихов, цветов, гравюр и фотографических изображений на памятниках, как это принято у нас. Надписи довольно скромные, как здесь, например, только “Отец”, “Мать” и “Кейт”.

14. Здесь совсем небольшие могильные плиты выглядывают из-под земли.

15. В некоторых местах вообще просто инициалы и год.

16. Саркофаг не так скромен, но тоже без оградки и прочего. Больше похоже на пямятник.

17. Сама территория, как маленький город, со своими улочками и указателями.

18. Недвижимость с вип-лакшери видом на кладбище. Судя по планировке, квартиры довольно большие.

 


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